|I purchased these from Game Kastle Fremont. They were|
in process being received and I snagged them.
|I started collecting and playing miniatures games with Aggro,|
and so he uses the UK style of basing 28MM figures upon 1.25-inch fender
washers. The white stuff here is E-6000 glue that I purchased
|Afterwards I start flocking the base with fine-grit after|
swabbing it profusely with Elmer's Glue.
|I add various granularities of grit to make the bases look|
interesting. All of this can be had from most hobby stores.
|Once the glue beneath the grit dries, I seal the grit in with|
a film layer of more Elmer's Glue. In this case I used the
clear glue type, but its not that important.
|This is the primer coat; my first step of each painting sequence.|
The dark color is black and helps me cheat during the painting process
because that sort of sets the crevasses within each figure
so that I won't have to paint them.
|After the primer coat dries, I do a dry-brush technique using|
a yellowish off-white color to make the details pop. This
step serves to help me identify where to paint as well as allow
later coats of color to appear brighter.
|I then dry-brush pure-white in less places than the yellowish|
off-white. This is to make the later coats of color stand-out
even more. I'll eventually add a wash to the color so that
they'll not look so cartoonish.
|By the way, this thimble-type thingy is something I recommend.|
With the magnetic base, I can place a figure upon it while painting.
|Here's what I mean; by having the thimble I can paint the|
figure with more control and less risk of dirtying my fingers
or even smudging my paint job. Quite important for when
I start painting the base of the figurines.
|I'm starting to add color to the archers. The first color laid upon|
all of your figures should be as dark as possible.
|Here's what it looks like upon the thimble. It's not that important|
at this point to use the thimble; it's more for later when I do
the bases really.
|Here I've begun to add metallic gold for spots of color.|
The pauldron is copper, as is the scale-armor kilt. The
bandaged feet is just brown ink wash.
|Here's the same figure after I started adding a very very light|
brown ink wash to the whites of the skeleton bones. The ink
settles into the crevasses and it gives a nice effect with the
black from the primer coat applied earlier.
|More of the brown ink wash is applied to the other figures.|
On these shields I first painted then chainmail silver metallic.
The boots are medium brown with the brown ink wash for detail.
|Top view of the archer. I've already added that gold dry-brush|
to the pauldron. The white band on the bow is the distinguish
it from the other two models with the same design.
|At this point, the skeletons are essentially done, and so I|
begin work on the bases. It's five steps; #1 flat light-gray everywhere
on the base, #2 add brown ink wash dabbles on some parts ...
|#3 add light green paint wash dabbles on some parts, #4 when|
everything dries, add a black ink wash over the entire base. This
makes the other colors much more clear.
|#5 the final step is to use the light-gray to lightly dry-bush|
parts of the base to make the black ink wash looks less shiny.
|Final result; ta da! In total, 18 figures with 6 variations so|
three figures each. This took about 2 hours a day for 4 days,
which is an average of about 30 minutes per figure.