PartsThe board fences I've created are a bit crude but there's nothing to prevent a careful craftsman to add more precision in the cutting and assembly of the parts. What you'll need are at least the following supplies:
- Square-milled wood about 0.25" thick. I used square-shafted chopsticks. These are for the fence posts.
- 0.25" coffee stirring sticks. These are for the boards. You'll need lots and the kind I purchased are here in the image at the right; they are 7.50" long and there 500 per box.
- 0.75" discs like for bingo chips. I used table spacers, but you could also use metal washers.
- The standard tools I use are; X-acto knife, wire-cutters, glue-gun, glue cartridges for the glue-gun. Steel ruler with metric enumerations.
What to do
- Cut your fence posts. Each post will be cut from the squared wood a be 50 MM long. You could go for 40 MM but I wanted a specific look to my final product. You'll need about 13 of these for each set of fences.
- Glue the posts standing upright upon the discs.
- Next cut your boards; I use wire-cutters for quick work. The fences are built in sections, each comprised of two posts and two sets of 8 boards. These boards should be 40 MM tall. Each coffee stir stick can produce 4 boards. I prefer the assembly-line process and so I mark all of my sticks first before cutting them. Cut out 50 boards.
- Lay out 8 boards with one side flush; leave the other side ragged as this will add character to the fence which is essential for dystopic genres such a Lovecraftian horror or pulp.
- Using new stir stick cut in thirds (or so); glue these down to the boards about 0.25" from the flush edge. This is the first of two cross-boards. It will be expedient to create large batches of such sets.
- After the glue has hardened, flip over each set of 8 boards and glue another cut piece of stir stick at at about 0.25" from the ragged edge.
- For each set of fences, trim the excess wood from those cross-boards.
- Take two of the mounted fence posts and two sets of boards. Glue the first set of fence boards between two posts but ensure the visible cross-board is at the bottom.
- Glue the second set of fence boards to the right-most post and ensure that the visible cross-board is at the top. This completes one fence section which should pretty much be like this; post + 8 boards + post + 8 boards.
- Complete the remainder of the fence sections. You'll need a minimum of 3 fence sections for a nice yard compartment abutted to a small house. I decided to create two sets of 6 to give me more flexibility as to how I'd use them.
- If you want a gate section you'll need to get a matchstick and cut it to 40 MM long; mount this against one of the posts. You'll need a total of 3 posts.
- There will need to be 3 different fence boards groups of size 4, 4, and 5. Build them as before but instead of using 8 boards, use 4, 4, and then 5.
- The door is built using a set of 5 boards. One face should have two parallel cross-boards, and the other face should have a bottom cross-board and a diagonal one leading out to the top of the door.
- Glue the door between two posts; one of the posts should have the matchstick and the door needs to touch that matchstick.
- Glue the remainder fence board sets and posts to the right or left of the door posts. You can see the photos below near the bottom for examples.
|Stir sticks become fence boards each 40 MM long.|
|Chop-sticks become fence posts each 50 MM long.|
|Each set of 8 boards is laid flush on one edge and|
affixed with cross-boards. Glue the set of fences to two
posts. Notice how the cross-boards alternate position.
|This is an example of a gate section.|
It is 4 + 5 + 5 boards and 3 posts plus a match-stick.
The swivel brackets are triangles cut from card-stock.
|This is my second gate but showing the reverse side.|
|I've got enough to create two large yard compartments|
or one really big one.